Pellet Maintenance
Lopi Leyden™

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Click on a topic below to jump to the maintenance procedure instructions.

  Firepot Refractory  
  Flyash Removal Convection Blower  
  Hopper Exhaust Blower  
  Heat Exchange Vent  
  Baffles Door Seal  
  Ashpan Door Adjustment  
  Glass
 

Cleaning the Firepot: Daily or whenever using the stove.


WARNING: Make sure the heater has fully cooled (approximately 25 minutes) before opening the door and conducting service.

To clean the firepot, open the door and knock away any debris on the firepot with a screwdriver.

If severely clogged, remove the firepot to gain better access.

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Flyash Removal: Daily or whenever using the stove.


WARNING: Make sure the heater has fully cooled (approximately 25 minutes) before opening the door and conducting service.

This heater was designed to allow for easy flyash removal with the included tools. However, to ease maintenance, several pellet stove owners have purchased
vacuums specifically made to remove flyash. Furthermore, some of these vacuums are heat-resistant to allow for flyash removal while it is still warm. Do not use
a standard vacuum on this appliance (except to clean the pellet dust out of the hopper). Standard vacuums may spread the fine particles inside the flyash into
the home and are not heat-resistant (hot flyash may cause the internal portion of vacuums to ignite).

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Cleaning the Hopper: Daily or whenever using the stove.


WARNING: Make sure the heater has fully cooled (approximately 25 minutes) before opening the door and conducting service.

Run the stove until the pellets run out. Open the hopper and remove the dust and debris near the bottom of the hopper.

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Cleaning the Heat Exchange Tubes: Weekly


WARNING: Make sure the heater has fully cooled (approximately 25 minutes) before opening the door and conducting service.

With the door closed, insert the included tool into the hole on the heat exchanger.

Move the heat exchange cleaning rod up and down several times

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Cleaning the Baffles: Weekly


WARNING: Make sure the heater has fully cooled (approximately 25 minutes) before opening the door and conducting service.

Use both hands to lift each baffle up and forward. Then tilt the baffle downward to remove any flyash that may have accumulated on the top of the baffle.
NOTE: You do not need to remove the baffle from the firebox.

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Cleaning the Ashpan: Weekly


WARNING: Make sure the heater has fully cooled (approximately 25 minutes) before opening the door and conducting service.

 

 

Lift the firepot out of its holder. Slide the ash pan trap door forward to expose the ash dumps (the door can be removed and cleaned if necessary.

Vaccuum all flyash into the ash dumps, including the flyash inside the firepot holder. Replace the ash trap doors and firepot. Slide the ashpan trap door forward.

Check Ashpan, dispose of if necessary.

The ashpan has a built in handle for ease of transportation of ashes.

Note: When replacing the ash pan make sure it is pushed all the way in.

Ashes should be placed in a metal container with a tight fitting lid. The closed container of ashes should be placed on a noncombustible floor or on the ground, well away from all combustible materials, pending final disposal. If the ashes are disposed of by burial in soil or otherwise locally dispersed, they should be retained in a closed container until all cinders have been thoroughly cooled.

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Cleaning the Glass: Weekly


WARNING: Make sure the heater has fully cooled (approximately 25 minutes) before opening the door and conducting service.

Open the doors and clean the glass with a non-abrasive glass cleaner and rag.

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Cleaning the Refractory: Yearly


WARNING: Make sure the heater has fully cooled (approximately 25 minutes) before opening the door and conducting service.

Remove both refractory clips.

Remove fireback and clean refractory and the entire area behind it on both sides.

  

Lift out the backwall covers and clean out ash.

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Cleaning the Convection Blower: Yearly


WARNING: Make sure the heater has fully cooled (approximately 25 minutes) before opening the door and conducting service.

 

The convection blower inlet can be vacuumed out if needed. If extensive cleaning is needed, it can be removed for cleaning.

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Cleaning the Exhaust Blower: Yearly


WARNING: Make sure the heater has fully cooled (approximately 25 minutes) before opening the door and conducting service.

Open hopper lid and remove the two screws holding the side doors in place with a Phillips screwdriver.

Remove the knob on the restrictor rod. Swing the left side panel open.

Remove the 6 screws holding the exhaust blower motor in place with a 11/32” Socket

Pull the motor out. Be careful not to damage the wiring or blades - replace gasket if it is damaged.

Clean the blower blades, blower housing, and exhaust box. You may wish to use a vacuum to pull ash out of the vent system. When replacing the motor, take care
to align the gasket.

Check the nipple and flow switch tube. Insert a pipe cleaner through the nipple to dislodge any flyash. NOTE: The flow switch will shut off the auger if the tube becomes clogged or dislodged. Make sure it is cleaned out and correctly attached.

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Cleaning the Vent: Yearly


WARNING: Make sure the heater has fully cooled (approximately 25 minutes) before opening the door and conducting service.

Whenever any portion of the pellet vent is disconnected, the joints must be sealed with RTV 500O F silicone sealant.

Make sure the cap is free of debris (especially if it has a screen that could become blocked.)

Check the vent sections for creosote accumulation (indicating a poorly burning stove). Accumulation over 1/4” must be removed.

On vertically vented systems, the dirtiest portion is often the point where the vent turns upwards (i.e. the “Tee”). Fortunately, the “Tee” has a built-in clean-out cover. Place a container under the “Tee”, disconnect the cover and remove all flyash. While open, use a flashlight to look up the vent to check for build-up.

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Door Seal: Yearly


WARNING: Make sure the heater has fully cooled (approximately 25 minutes) before opening the door and conducting service.

Air leaks into the firebox will decrease the stove’s performance greatly, leading to excessive sooting, inefficient burning, and perhaps a malfunction.
The door gasket must contact the entire perimeter of the door and create an air-tight seal. To verify this, open the door, hold a dollar bill against the body of the heater, close the door, and secure the latch. The dollar bill should be held firmly in place (check the entire perimeter of the door. If it is loose or falls out, the door must be adjusted (see the following listing).

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Door Adjustment: Yearly


WARNING: Make sure the heater has fully cooled (approximately 25 minutes) before opening the door and conducting service.

Because the door is three-sided, it is crucial the door is aligned correctly. We recommend that you open the hopper lid and look down upon the door and body of the heater.

Correctly Aligned Door:
When properly adjusted, the door should be evenly spaced from the front of the stove (and shut tight, compressing the gasket).

Latch Too Tight:
This is the most common misalignment. Loosen the latch and tighten the hinge.

Hinge Too Tight:
Loosen the hinge and tighten the latch.

The door hinge and door latches may be adjusted to pull the door closer to the body. Open the hopper lid and remove the two screws holding the side doors in place.

To adjust the latch loosen the lock nut and twist the pawl (clockwise to tighten, counter-clockwise to loosen). Tighten the lock nut to secure in place.

With the door closed, loosen the two bolts going through the door hinge bracket.

Loosen the four nuts used to move the hinge adjusting plate. Tighten or loosen these these nuts to adjust the door hinge bracket. Adjust the upper and lower nuts equally to insure the door remains level. Tighten the four nuts.

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